The History of Make-Up
Ancient Origins
The first recorded evidence of makeup used for cosmetic reasons dates back at least 5000 years. Men and women in ancient Egypt would use makeup to protect their skin from the sun. They would use a substance called ungulate, which helps protect the skin and protect people from the infection of harmful diseases. However, the substance itself is somewhat debated; the most common belief is that it is a combination of lead ore or something similar.
The upper-class ancient Egyptians would also use black kohl makeup to create the dramatic winged eyeliner look that is still popular today. Interestingly, this eyeliner also had a practical purpose in their lives, as it would protect their skin from the sun's powerful rays, almost like an ancient form of sunscreen. The ancient Egyptians used makeup and beauty rituals for a variety of different purposes, some of which the reasons are still not entirely known. Both men and women would use scented oils on their bodies for personal hygiene purposes, but it was also believed that the oils had magical healing properties.
The use of oils and perfumed fragrances was believed to ward off and protect the body from illnesses and was even placed in tombs post-mortem for use in the afterlife. For the less well-off citizens of the ancient Egyptian empire, using makeup was primarily for health and protection. Galena, a lead ore, would be ground up and used as a liner for the eyes which, when applied in a certain way, would help protect from the glare of the sun and also eye infections. Lipstick made in ancient Egypt has been found to contain substances with antibacterial properties, stimulating a belief that ancient peoples had an understanding of the medicinal benefits of makeup. Not only that but the burial mask of Pharaoh Tutankhamen has been found to contain traces of the same lead-based makeup. This shows that even at the highest echelons of Egyptian society, evidence of a makeup regime exists.
Makeup and beauty in the ancient world were used beyond gender and class, with societies appreciating cosmetics for various benefits and possibilities. Ideas of beauty and identity expressed with makeup are deeply rooted in culturally specific intersections and traditions and continue to be perpetuated in the modern world. Many of the beauty rituals of the ancient world laid the foundations for cosmetics and fashion practices we now recognise and appreciate today. The ancient Greek and Roman makeup beliefs can help us understand the changing perceptions of beauty and identity through the centuries as ideologies shifted and adapted.
Ancient Egyptian Influence
Another ancient civilisation that significantly impacted the early history of makeup is Egypt. The ancient Egyptians are often credited with being the pioneers of makeup, as they believed it to have healing and magical powers. The ancient Egyptians were very skilled in creating cosmetics and their makeup style carried on throughout Egypt's long history. Both men and women wore makeup, using minerals such as copper ore and malachite to create green and black pigments which would adorn the eyes in a style known as "kohl". This material acted as sunscreen, as well as protecting against eye infections caused by the harsh desert sun and aided in reducing the glare caused by the sun. They would mix in other minerals to create a variety of colours, with three known varieties of green. These techniques and styles eventually became the standard for the rest of the known world and their influence can still be seen in modern cosmetics.
The characters portrayed in ancient Egyptian art are often adorned with striking colourful makeup, reflecting the styles and beliefs of the real people. Based on the burial rituals, it is believed that cosmetics played a big part in the ancient Egyptian afterlife. It was common for pharaohs and queens to be buried with jars of different cosmetics as they believed they would need to use them in the afterlife. An example of this can be seen in the tomb of the young king, Tutankhamun, where over 30 jars of cosmetic material were found placed near his remains. Tutankhamun’s tomb has been a popular site for tourists to visit for decades, due to both the rich history on display and the intrigue surrounding the supposed "curse" of the pharaohs.
The colour and style of the makeup worn by the pharaohs can signify different meanings. For example, heavily lined eyes and dark colours around the eyes were believed to protect from the "evil eye", a curse bestowed by a malevolent glare. The ancient Egyptians also used crushed carmine beetles and ants to create red pigments which would be applied to the lips and cheeks. This style was later popularised in ancient Greece and the Roman Empire, where red makeup became the vogue.
Luminous, white facial powders were used as well as a mixture of red clay and water to create a decorative paint known as "mesdement" - some translations refer to it as "divine" or "kohl water". The noble and fashionable women and men of the time would be painted with this solution every day, acting as a protection against the glare of the sun and also potential disease. The ancient Egyptians had a rich and varied cosmetic history and it is clear that their efforts and knowledge of cosmetics greatly influenced many other ancient cultures and societies.
Ancient Greek and Roman Practices
The ancient Greeks were known for the many different types of makeup that they utilised, ranging from white lead face powder and layers of rouge to enhance the cheekbones to kohl eye makeup made from ground-up minerals. The process of applying makeup was a lengthy one in ancient Greece, as it was seen as an essential part of a person’s beauty routine. For those who could afford it, there was a large variety of makeup products we can see evidence of today. For example, cosmetics boxes filled with silver flakes and wooden or metal containers are used to store face powder.
However, makeup products served more than just a cosmetic value – items like small, ornate bronze allowed – a type of eyeliner – authenticated not only the wealth but the status of the user, as those who had them buried them alongside other items of significance, like precious jewellery and household items. The Romans took a lot of their makeup inspiration from the ancient Greeks, but it also became a focal point of fashion and general appearance, rather than just a part of superstition or religious beliefs. It was a means of heightening beauty and social value, as the wealthy could afford to purchase expensive and sought-after cosmetic products from across the Roman Empire. One key difference is that the Romans, rather than just focusing makeup on women, were fond of the idea that if a man wore makeup they too could be considered beautiful. As a result, makeup went through more diverse periods of design and significance. For example, during the time that the Roman Empire was at its greatest, it was popular to have darker eyebrows and a paler complexion. This contrasted with the lighter eyebrow and rosy cheek trends pushed by the upper-class citizens of the early Republic period of Roman history.
Traditional Makeup in Asian Cultures
Across the world and throughout history, people have been using makeup to enhance their appearance, reflect their culture, and represent themselves in a certain way. In many Western cultures particularly, we tend to think that makeup is a solely modern phenomenon. However, in areas such as Asia, makeup has been an important part of the culture for hundreds and thousands of years. In particular, the makeup of Japan, China, and Korea has a rich history that dates back to as many as 2000 years ago and is still prevalent in these countries today. The Geisha, a cultural symbol of Japan whose appearance in traditional dress has been iconic, still uses the same techniques and styles of makeup that started being used in the Heian period. This period began in the year 794 and ended in 1185, signifying that the style of makeup has been consistently used for over a thousand years.
The white base makeup, full red lips, and delicately made black eyes have been synonymous with Japanese cultural history and are often some of the main things that foreigners would associate with traditional Japan. This makeup dates back to the Henan period and was inspired by the look of nobility, where pale skin and red lips were seen as desirable and beautiful - as women of nobility appeared this way without having to do any hard physical work.
In Korea, traditional makeup trends stayed relatively similar for hundreds of years. While in the West fashions come and go and there's an ever-changing dynamic in the makeup industry, Korea holds a steadfast and deep pride in its traditional looks. The makeup from the Joseon dynasty and prior, which ran from the 14th to the late 19th century, shows women with small pops of red on the lips and in the centre of the cheeks, with only a light amount of eye makeup towards the ends of the eyebrows. This look was fashionable for hundreds of years. However, things began to change and evolve in the late 19th century when Korea was colonised by Japan. New influences from Japanese makeup began to appear, and old traditional makeup trends started to die out. In this sense, many interesting social and cultural parallels can be drawn from the study of the history of makeup in Asia; the makeup trends and how they changed throughout history can often be a reflection of the sociopolitical climate and what kind of influences were present at the time.
The Evolution of Makeup: Renaissance to Victorian Era
Staying current and stylish is important to many consumers, but so are the intrinsic properties of makeup: quality, lasting power, and cost were all important to both the Victorians and the people of the Renaissance. By studying how makeup has changed and adapted through history, we can better understand not just cultural trends, but also consumer habits and the evolution of science and technology. It brings to light the different roles and intentions in makeup, from ritualistic or symbolic uses to more practical and everyday applications. This kind of research and exploration can provide a wide array of conclusions and questions that open up more doors for further pursuits.
Currently, makeup is used mostly by women, and society often looks down on those who use it excessively or incorrectly. We frame those opinions in our minds based on first impressions, which can be greatly affected by a person's facial appearance, which is in turn shaped by makeup or lack thereof.
In studying the evolution of makeup through generations, we can better understand how societal expectations surrounding beauty and makeup have been shaped. These expectations matter not just on a philosophical level, but also in terms of societal norms and pressures. We see both how these standards have changed over time and how elements from the past are still at play.
Makeup has been present in human civilisation for centuries and its uses are as varied as the cultures that use it. The Renaissance and Victorian eras both saw widespread change on a global scale, including changes in makeup styles and acceptance. Documenting this evolution can provide personal insight not just into history for historians, but also into ourselves and how we as a society view makeup and those who wear it.
Importance of Makeup in Historical Context
From ancient times to the sixteenth century, makeup possessed social and religious implications that profoundly affected people’s lives. The truth is that makeup had an immense impact than most people today realise. For example, church leaders and moralists called for extreme measures to be taken against the production, sale, and use of cosmetics.
There were notable campaigns as seen in thirteenth-century England under King Hubert. Cosmetic artisans were persecuted and in 1307, he signed the first statutory act to restrict the production and sale of makeup. In the same century, Queen Victoria of England strongly condemned makeup.
As a result, the use of cosmetics became exclusive to such groups as prostitutes, actors, and actresses. Professional clowns were also exempted as they were supposed to wear distinctive makeup to entertain both the rich and the poor. In France, King Francis a leader in European fashion, passed increasing restrictions.
The government prescribed definite makeup rules for each age group with older women allowed to wear only red and younger women told to paint their lips red and their cheeks natural. A woman caught wearing the wrong makeup for her age would suffer a month’s imprisonment or have her beauty slices nose and lips removed. Such radical penalties demonstrate the perceived threat of makeup to society. By 1548, a law restricted the sale of makeup to registered cosmetic makers. Advertisements to sell cosmetics would not be allowed until seven centuries later. By recognising the many ways makeup influenced life in history, historians have developed a heightened sense of appreciation for the relevant cultural intricacies characterising past societies. Cultures between the historic periods differ greatly and this has implications on the level of tolerance attributed to the use of cosmetics. By studying these cultures, modern societies are in a better position to acknowledge the depth of makeup significance over the years.
The History of Make-Up
Ancient Origins- By Susie Wilson
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